Aya Noël studied Comparative Literature at the Université Paris-Sorbonne (BA and MA), and Fashion Journalism at Central Saint Martins in London (MA). Her final thesis focussed on the way sustainability is communicated through fashion media. She is currently working as the online editor of 1 Granary, a platform founded by the students of Central Saint Martins, Royal College of Art in London, Parsons in New York, and the Royal Academy of Fine Arts’ Fashion Department in Antwerp.
As the fashion industry adapts to global change and the ongoing environmental debate, one area appears to be lagging behind. Fashion media is struggling to translate the exciting innovations and subversive philosophies developing on a creative/design level. Part of the problem is fashion journalism’s incapacity to write about fashion beyond a consumerist approach. Given that sustainability in fashion usually involves an alternative to capitalist consumption, these ideals are often incompatible with mainstream fashion writing. If we want to give “sustainable fashion” a chance at questioning the status quo and proposing new ways to design/produce/consume fashion, we need to change the way we write about fashion. The central axe should not be the singular moment of consumption (“five coats for fall to buy now”) but the long term relationship a wearer develops with the piece. If fashion writing finds new ways to communicate and shape our relationship to fashion, the industry might solve its environmental issues.